My first flat - Suzuki Van Van 200 Forum
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-05-2019, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
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My first flat

I've been riding for about 13 years and never had a flat. Until today! lol 35 miles on the odometer and a flat to show.

Seeing it on that giant tow truck was hilarious, though.

But now I get to learn how to fix it myself. The Motorsports shop, where I purchased it, wanted $21 for the tube and $81 for labor. No thanks.

I'll update this thread as my journey unfolds. May be a day or two; wanted to see my sister and my niece today 🙂
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-05-2019, 06:47 PM
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That's the crap side of having tubed tires -- almost no way to fix it roadside. Tubeless tires can be plugged/pumped up or Fix-A-Flat will often work. Forget about it with tubed tires -- it's remove the tire, patch the tube, re-install tube and tire, pump up tire. Now, how many folks today even know how to do this? Or have the tools roadside to do it?
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-05-2019, 07:18 PM
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I think I had the same thing, except mine was a roofing screw. I started to ride it & it was real squirrelly.

Our local shop wants $100 also.

I took into to my local tire shop, he patched tire & tube for $20. He is a former student of mine and does all my tires & the farmer across the road. So Iím up there 4 times this summer. I got 3 new tires on my other bikes. You have to take the tire in though.

Hoopeston,IL/Quartzsite/AZ
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-06-2019, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Since I've never done this before, there were quite a few things that I required. (Namely, everything)

I wanted to give everyone a list of everything I purchased, as well as the cost, to give you a general idea of what a first-timer is looking at:

-- Required parts and tools --
Bridgestone 180/80-14 Standard TR-4 Straight Metal Stem Tube - $21.99 (No shipping, because Honey gave me a coupon code for free shipping)
https://www.jpcycles.com/product/zz2...etal-stem-tube

Tire Spoons - $19.99
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MS4CPWK/

Torque Wrench - $37.85 (Mine went MIA and I'm not riding down the street with a loose bolt)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/

YITAMOTOR Universal Paddock Lift Stands $75.98 (Not completely necessary, as there are other ways to lift a bike, but I live alone and I wanted something secure)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078XZQVS9/

-- Not Required --

Bead Buddy II - $15.29 (I've seen how helpful these are when you're trying to push the tire back under the rim)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035UDHZ2/

Motion Pro 08-0357 Rim Protector - $8.99 (Didn't want to scratch my new rims lol)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MXZHUI/

Ride-On Tire Balancer and Sealant - $15.95 (This should help balance the tires and quick-fix a screw in the tire, in the future. Much cleaner than Slime)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DX8BTUG/

--------------

Total cost for a first-timer - $196.04

Keep in mind that I didn't have most of the tools and I also bought extra things that weren't necessary. I also have a tire inflator, ratchets, wrenches and other various tools, so those were saved expenses.

The mechanic wanted $21 for the tube (same price I ended up paying) and extra $81 to install. Their total would have been $102, but that's every time I get a flat. There's lots of construction in the are where I live, so I doubt this will be my last flat.

Now we wait for everything to arrive.
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-06-2019, 03:55 PM
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Just be careful you don't pinch the new tube when you refit the tyre.....or you'll wish you'd paid the dealer instead! Good luck!
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigerjohn View Post
Just be careful you don't pinch the new tube when you refit the tyre.....or you'll wish you'd paid the dealer instead! Good luck!
Excellent advice Thank you!
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-10-2019, 01:02 AM Thread Starter
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Ran into a snag. Lift stands arrived yesterday. Assembled today. Realized that when I lift the rear wheel, the right side gets caught up in the brake cable.

Trying to find a solution to this, but it's almost midnight, so I probably shouldn't be messing with this anyways
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-10-2019, 02:04 AM
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Fork501, okay, we all know you meant that as a joke, because no one believes you didn't figure out that the rear brake ROD has to be taken off anyway, so.................before you use the rear wheel lift...........undo the adjuster nut on the far back end of the brake rod, push the foot brake pedal down all the way, this will allow the brake rod to move forward, so you can then release the brake rod from the brake actuator arm, then remove the spring from the brake rod, and nicely swing the brake rod off to an angle, or UP, out of the way, and use either a plastic tie-wrap, or a bungee cord, to hold the brake rod out of the way, while you then finally use the rear wheel lift to lift the rear of the bike.
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-10-2019, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Flyin'Monkeys View Post
Fork501, okay, we all know you meant that as a joke, because no one believes you didn't figure out that the rear brake ROD has to be taken off anyway, so.................before you use the rear wheel lift...........undo the adjuster nut on the far back end of the brake rod, push the foot brake pedal down all the way, this will allow the brake rod to move forward, so you can then release the brake rod from the brake actuator arm, then remove the spring from the brake rod, and nicely swing the brake rod off to an angle, or UP, out of the way, and use either a plastic tie-wrap, or a bungee cord, to hold the brake rod out of the way, while you then finally use the rear wheel lift to lift the rear of the bike.
Thank you

In all honesty, I wanted to see if I had any alternatives before I removed the brake rod (thank you for correcting the term,) just because I don't like messing with brakes unless I have to. But I think stepping away from the bike when it's midnight is always a good idea lol

Have any tips for adjusting after I put it back in there, at the end? I've seen videos where they say to just count how many rotations you turn the adjuster nut, but that doesn't help in the future when you need to actually adjust it.

This is all part of learning and I definitely appreciate any corrections that anyone can give.
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-10-2019, 11:33 AM
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Refer to manual for rear brake pedal adjustment, something like 0.75" to 1.5" or less down motion.
Sometimes time and stress are worth paying someone else to fix a flat.
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